Let’s see. What’s wrong with this picture?

Pushing 50 kilos of cargo uphill single handedly
on a busy street in downtown Madrid.
As if that’s not enough, must take phone call right now!
June 6, 2010
Let’s see. What’s wrong with this picture?

Pushing 50 kilos of cargo uphill single handedly
on a busy street in downtown Madrid.
As if that’s not enough, must take phone call right now!
May 31, 2010
Couldn’t resist sharing this photo of the merchandise on offer at a gas station convenience store between Toro and Madrid in northwestern Spain. There were of course the items you might expect to find: soft drinks, potato chips, candy, motor oil, washer fluid, etc. But also, right in the middle of the shop, was this stand of cured hams and salamis. Apparently, you never know when you might be hit by an urgent need for same – or be halfway to your destination and realize that you left your ham at home!
May 26, 2010
REFLECTION: Well, folks, it’s been six weeks since I signed off for a Pause sabbatical in anticipation of the Great Spring Travel Adventure. You’ll recall I was headed for Europe to spend a week taking a painting class in the Cotswolds, followed by two weeks with my husband in London and Paris, and a final two weeks with a painting group touring Portugal, Spain and Morocco.
Those of you who follow my blog or Facebook page will already know things didn’t quite unfold according to plan. It seems the Icelandic Volcano had other ideas in mind for me. The thick layer of volcanic ash clogging the flightpaths over Europe shut down air travel on the very day we were to leave for London. We rebooked our flights for 5 days later only to be cancelled again with the prospect of yet another 5 day wait before we could snag another set of seats – IF the airports were open.
By then I had missed the painting class completely, all our time in the UK would have evaporated, and Dave and I would be left with one short week together in Paris. So, we opted to cancel our shared portion of the trip in hopes of something more substantial at a later time, and I rebooked to fly directly to join the painting group in Lisbon.
Frankly, I did not take the change well. (more…)
May 24, 2010
I can’t really say that I have ever longed to visit Marrakech. But when I learned it was to be part of our painting expedition, I looked forward to a chance to capture some of the colors of life in Morocco.
Unfortunately, shortly after our arrival, I ended up sick and spent the first day and a half confined to quarters. Fortunately, quarters – in this case, Riad Catalina – offered lots of opportunities to dip into my colors. It was as much fun as someone who is under the weather has a right to expect. Thought you might enjoy a sketch or two that came out of my confinement.
Although I missed out on a first hand experience of the Fnaa (complete with snakes, watersellers, and henna artists), I did recouperate enough to take a ride in a calleche to visit the Majorelle Gardens and also to spend an afternoon shopping the souks for souvenirs.
Now that I’m back in Canada again, here are a few notes from my Moroccan experience:
* Marrakech is a city of contrasts – crazy, chaotic street action offset by cool and refreshing oases (riad courtyards, Majorelle Gardens, rooftop terraces high above the din)
* Colorful pigments, yarns, spices – all on offer. Spices with odors so strong, a few grams in your suitcase is enough to scent your entire traveling wardrobe.
* Fabulous tastes. Picture twelve different cold plates of salad, each one featuring a veggie individually spiced and flavored, each plate more interesting, colorful, and delicious than the last.
* Call to prayer five times a day – broadcast from the mosque to the neighborhood at large. I’m sure I heard every word of the 4:30 am call on our last morning in Marrakech.
* The shopkeepers’ determination and glee in bartering for their goods. After a satisfying exchange and subsequent agreement, a shake of hands and more relaxed and congenial conversations.
*In the last deal of my visit, I purchased 6 glass and silver bottles to hold the pigments I’d bought the day before. When the shopkeeper discovered he only had 5 on hand, he told me to stay right there, he’d be right back. Then he rushed out of the shop, hopped on his motorbike and disappeared into the souks. leaving me solo in his shop. Five minutes later he’s back with the final item. Whether it was retrieved from a storehouse, borrowed or bought from a buddy, I do not know. I do know he showed a phenomenal level of trust you don’t find here in North America!
May 17, 2010
We made two stops in Spain – Toro and Madrid. Toro is an older village in north western part of the country. We stayed in the old town at the Juan II with great views of the Rio Douro valley and the Collegiata. It was dang cold there – unusually so, apparently. Experienced lots of cloud, rain, fog and a bit of hail – as well as snow in the mountains on the way from Toro to Madrid.
Still I did learn that it is possible to paint in the cold – just bundle yourself up in a blanket on the balcony and be prepared to zip back indoors when it starts to spit.
Warmer weather in Madrid. Big celebration while we were there. The birthday of the city’s patron saint as well as the 100th anniversary of the Grand Via – one of Madrid’s main boulevards. First time I’ve seen a street paved in royal blue carpet for blocks and blocks. A very festive mood.
As for what I noted in Madrid:
– fashionable women – great boots and leather jackets
– many women and children in national costume in honor of the holiday
– lots of folks visiting in wine bars – standing while chatting and enjoying the tapis
– sculptures and decorative bits on the tops of building after building – an unbelievable degree of decoration
– beautiful ironwork balconies, light fixtures
– dark arts at the Prado – Goya, El Greco, Velasquez – those fellows had some very dark days indeed
And now off to sample the offerings in Marrakech, Morocco.
Expect that my burnt sienna paint will get a pretty good workout on those terra cotta buildings.
May 14, 2010
If you are looking for a fabulous place to stay in Portugal, I highly recommend Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros near Pinhao up the Duoro River Valley. Ursula, Adeladie and the staff will make you feel very at home.
Beautiful suites and cottages – with fabulous gardens tended with love and attention. Roses, roses, everywhere. Molly, the English bulldog, to entertain.
Beautiful place from which to enjoy the views of the vineyards spreading out across the hills.
Take a ride on a rubella (the ancient boats used to transport the port wine down the river for export). Sip a few glasses of port wine – everywhere you go or on your visits to the neighboring qintas (wineries).
May 14, 2010
Terra cotta roofs and white washed buildings.
Vineyards and olive groves.
Port wine and fresh seafood. Painted tiles in blues and yellows.
Cork trees biding their time for harvest.
Tasty breads, dried meats and olives.
Last year’s huge overripe oranges hanging on the same trees on which new orange blossoms perfume the air and set the fruit for the season ahead.
The photo above from Porto on the Douro River. The painting below sketched on location on the same riverbank.

May 9, 2010
A few glimpses of scenes from Sao Martinho north up the coast from Lisbon.
Many boats in the bay. Lovely houses up the hills.
Gotta love a house on the hill!
May 7, 2010

Gotta love these pastries – flaky bottom and custard filling.
Ate this one still warm from the oven. Mmmmm good!
Santa Domingo soars in downtown Lisbon. Would you look this good if you’d survived earthquakes in 1500s and 1700s and a fire in 1959?
May 5, 2010

Lunching al fresco in Lisbon.
Newstand just opening up for the day in Largo Do Carmo.
Serenaded by one of the happiest roving minstrels I’ve ever met.